Description and usage notes:
This is the third variant of Ambrettolide that we’ve decided to stock at Pell Wall and you might reasonably wonder why: the answer is that this is something really special. First because it’s very high in the cis isomer which has a stronger and more floral odour profile than the trans isomer which dominates in the other products. It was first launched by ACS in 2018 as the first macrocyclic musk manufactured using biotechnology, which also makes it vegan friendly (other manufacturers use a starting material derived from lac bugs). It has a 100% renewable carbon content (no petroleum involved) and is also competitively priced – what’s not to like?
ACS describe the odour as: “Musk, floral, clean, Ambrette seed oil“.
An extremely fine macrocyclic musk of great diffusion and power, this a close analog of the musk that occurs naturally in Ambrette seed oil (though despite claims sometimes made, not identical with that musk) and one of the most effective. In traces it will enhance other ingredients and is especially effective used in combination with Exaltolide and Ethylene brassylate. A classic musk note with a subtle fruity backnote often likened to red-berries, this variation is exceptionally clean and high impact: try smelling this high cis version alongside one of the others to appreciate the difference.
Arctander says it “is one of the finest fixatives among the distinguished group of those showing a synergistic and amplifying effect upon perfumes and flavors. At the same time it increases the diffusiveness of fragrances in which it is incorporated. Its fixative effect is easily recognized by the fact that solutions of 0.01% Ambrettolide (or even less) in slightly diluted alcohol show practically no odor of alcohol, only a faint, floral-musky, sweet and pleasant odor of the lactone. A. is particularly useful in fragrance types of delicately floral, mildly animal or Ambre-like type.”
Calkin & Jellinek say that “Ambrettolide, although one of the most expensive of the synthetic musks, when used in trace amounts has a wonderful effect in ‘rounding off’ the character of a perfume, working as much in the top note as in the base.”
Almost everyone sells this musk as Ambrettolide (whether manufactured by IFF, Givaudan or anyone else) but it is more correctly called iso-Ambrettolide. The musk found in Ambrette seeds is slightly different and has the CAS number 7779-50-2 though to add to the confusion that is also sometimes, incorrectly, applied to this musk by sellers who don’t appreciate the difference.
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