Description and usage notes:
This a strong, highly effective musk even in small doses, smooth, cosmetic, full and with a slightly powdery dry-down and nitro-musk-like effects comparable with that found in Velvione. It has exceptionally high impact and warmth and some people also detect an anisic as well as an ambergris aspect in this material.
Description from Givaudan: “Odor: Musky, Warm, Powdery. Use: An intensely rich, powerful and elegant musk. The warm powdery facets of Cosmone are reminiscent of classic nitromusks with a subtle ambregris nuance. A trace of Cosmone brings an outstanding cosmetic volume to all types of accords. While extremely effective by itself, Cosmone also offers excellent synergy with other ingredients.”
Typical use level can vary from as little as 0.1% in the fragrance compound to around 5% but levels up to 50% are possible where cost considerations permit. For many years Cosmone was a Givaudan captive, released onto the wider market a few years ago.
Unusually Cosmone is declared in the notes list of the fragrance Panache by Delrae (perfumer Yann Vasnier) released in 2010 and that of Pi Neo from Givenchy (perfumer Antoine Lie), released in 2008: in both cases these fragrances were first released while Cosmone was still a Givaudan captive.
Note that this 14 carbon ring, macrocyclic musk has close structural and olfactory similarities with Muscenone but a higher vapour pressure means it appears earlier in the development of fragrances where it is used than Muscenone would do.
Jonathan Gilhooly –
Beautiful, rich and elegant musk. Not unlike Velvione but, to my nose, brighter, cleaner and ‘airier’, as well as slightly less animalic.
Jonathan –
NB: having spent some time with this musk, I can confirm there is a subtle, but distinctive, anisic aspect.