Description and usage notes:
Galaxolide is an isochroman musk, that has an odour profile that is liked by most people and is similar to a macrocyclic musk. It is strong, clean smelling and a good fixative. It combines well with other musks and is often used in combinations.
Together with Hedione, Methyl Ionone Gamma, and Iso E Super, in roughly equal proportions, it is a key component of the so-called “Grojsman accord” – called her “hug me” accord by the perfumer herself: it is one of the most influential in modern perfumery. Sophia Grojsman first developed the accord for a perfume she made for herself. It came to dominate feminine perfume after being incorporated in a number of early 1990’s fragrances that enjoyed major commercial success: first and most importantly in Grojsman’s Tresor (Lancôme, 1990), but then in her Spellbound (Lauder, 1991), in Michel Almairac’s Casmir (Chopard, 1991), Maurice Roger’s Dune (Dior, 1991), and so on. (credit Scent & Chemistry)
Besides its diffusive, linear and instantly recognizable character, the accord is exceptionally transparent and very versatile: even in large doses – sometimes more than 3/4 of the formula – the characteristic effect of the accord can be introduced in a nearly limitless range of landscapes, without silencing its surroundings. The accord also takes well to modifications in the proportions between its components, further expanding the its potential uses while preserving much of its distinctive smell. Tresor itself is a case in point, with the Hedione content at around a third of that of the other 3 ingredients.
The accord’s transparency derives from the transparency of the 4 materials themselves. Galaxolide is a case in point: it is an extremely powerful musk, with an odour detection threshold is as low as that of Muscenone, perhaps the most powerful non-captive macrocyclic musk. Yet despite this potency, Galaxolide lets other ingredients shine through even in extreme overdose – say, at over 40% of a formula.
It is also one of the cheapest musks that is still used on a very large scale. In pure form it is very difficult to work with being a very thick, sticky liquid that won’t pour, so IFF also sell it at 50% in either DEP or IPM, either resulting in a mobile liquid that is easy to handle and use.
The product offered here is fluidised with IPM rather than DEP – better for those who wish to avoid phthalates – for those who wish to avoid polycyclic musks altogether, Romandolide is the nearest alternative to Galaxolide in olfactory terms.