Description and usage notes:
One of, if not the most useful, floral and one of the most powerful of all natural materials used in perfumery. As this is such a powerful and expensive material it is also available here at 10% dilution.
The material offered here is a fine quality Jasmine Absolute produced from Concrete made in Egypt from locally grown flowers by Fridal one of the suppliers we have access to through our Zanos collaboration.
The manufacturer identifies the following main components of this product: “Benzyl Acetate, Benzyl Benzoate, Phytol, Iso-Phytol, Cis-Jasmone, Linalool, Indol.“
Arctander writes extensively about this material: “Jasmin Absolute from Concrete is a dark orange (on ageing reddish-brown), somewhat viscous liquid, and it possesses an intensely floral, warm, rich and highly diffusive odor with a peculiar waxy -herbaceous, oily-fruity and tea-like under- tone. The odor and the nuances in the undertone varies according to the origin, production, age and method of purification (from the concrete).
Jasmin absolute represents one of the most striking examples of nature’s ability to round off and conceal—or unsurpassably utilize—the odor-effect of very simple odorants, e.g. benzyl acetate and Iinalool, the main constituents of jasmin absolute (in respect to quantity). Most perfumers have, at one time or another in their experience, tried to duplicate the jasmin fragrance by relying upon literature information as to the chemical composition of jasmin absolute (a very unartistic approach to a perfumery problem!). The perfumers will no doubt agree that the problem is not solved, nor is it hardly even approached in this way, The odor of a mixture of benzyl acetate, linalool, benzyl alcohol, methyl anthranilate, indole, etc. in the analyzed proportions is far from representative of the jasmin fragrance. More recently, a number of low-percentage components have been identified in the jasmin absolute, and these findings have greatly contributed to the improvement of artificial jasmin flower oil bases. A large number of synthetic materials, some of them chemically related to the jasmones, have been developed, and these are of great help to the creative perfumer in his attempts to reproduce [it]”
He goes on to talk about uses: “Jasmin Absolute from Concrete is used in such a multitude and variety of perfumes that it is hardly possible to establish a rulefor its use. ‘No perfume without jasmin’ is an old saying, and this is not far from the fact. The jasmin-rose complex forms the more important part or ‘fond’ of numerous ‘grands parfums’ as well as quite ordinary perfumes and bases. The floral note, when required, is provided by the addition of jasmin absolute or any kind of a jasmin base in 8 out of 10 cases. And the practicing perfume student will be surprised when he learns how little jasmin absolute he has to use in order to obtain just enough of a ‘floral’ note. With that fact in consideration, even a true jasmin absolute is rarely too expensive to use.”
The product is certified by the manufacturer to contain the following materials requiring declaration as potential allergens by EU authorities:
| Benzyl Benzoate | < 30% |
| Eugenol | < 5% |
| Benzyl Alcohol | < 5% |
| Limonene | traces |
| Isoeugenol | < 0.5% |
| Linalool | < 5% |
If you’re following the IFRA guidelines you’ll need to know that it can be used up to the following levels in products (using the IFRA product classes):
- Category 1 : 0.04 %
- Category 2 : 0.05 %
- Category 3 : 0.22 %
- Category 4 : 0.70 %
- Category 5 : 0.40 %
- Category 6 : 1.10 %
- Category 7 : 0.10 %
- Category 8 : 1.50 %
- Category 9 : 5.00 %
- Category10 : 2.50 %
- Category 11 : not limited
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