This product, manufactured by Payan Bertrand is of Balkan origin and is produced by solvent extraction from Evernia prunastri the classic oakmoss material, with adjustment by PB to achieve an absolute compliant with the requirements of the 48th edition of the IFRA standards.
The undiluted material is a dark green semi-solid mass that requires gentle heating to melt for use. As this is both an expensive product, and difficult to handle because of its consistency, it is presented here as a 10% solution in ethanol, however it is also available undiluted if you prefer.
Arctander writes very extensively about Oakmoss products including that : “Oakmoss products are used extensively in perfumery. They form important parts of the notes in all fougere, chypre or ‘moss’ perfumes, and they are common ingredients in colognes, crepe de Chines, forest notes, new mown hay, pine fragrances, lavender bouquets, Oriental bases, fancy or modern bases, etc. They can lend body and naturalness, rich pleasant undertones and high fixative value in numerous types of floral fragrances as well. Oakmoss products blend well with so many groups of perfume materials that it is hard to confine its use to certain mixtures. The oakmoss product never amounts to many percent of the total weight of a perfume formula (except in very rare cases), but it very often plays a decisive role in the overall performance of the perfume, even when the oakmoss product amounts to a few percent or less by weight.”
He goes on: “One of the most important of all the oakmoss products—if not the most important—is the Absolute of Oakmoss. It is generally prepared by alcohol extraction of the concrete … A special process involves the addition of solid paraffin or ceresin to the melted oak moss concrete. The mixture is chilled, comminuted (by grinding or chopping) and subsequently extracted with ethyl alcohol … the absolute from a benzene extracted concrete [such as this product] is still a solid or semi-solid mass …”
Payan Bertrand describe this material as: “Mixture of oakmoss extract (Evernia prunastri Ach.) and natural, nature identical and synthetic aromatic products.” in their Technical Data Sheet.
Documents
Note that these documents relate to the undiluted product:
Available to purchasers via the Documentation tab:
- Technical Data Sheet
- Certificate of Analysis
- IFRA Certificate
- Allergen Report
Derryn (verified owner) –
Georgous smell, rich, dark, earthy. Very nice & highly recommended.
peter9370 (verified owner) –
This is a wonderful material – somewhat less sweet and heavy than the “traditional” oakmoss (which can become cloying in large doses). To my nose, it also has a slight smokiness which further adds to its appeal.