Description and usage notes:
Much sweeter and finer than the Clove Leaf and Clove Stem oils, clove bud is by far the most widely used in fragrances and although IFRA restrictions have reduced the amount that can be included, it is still one of the staples of the perfumer’s palette.
This oil is distilled from the dried flower buds of the clove tree (now called Syzygium aromaticum other botanical names that have been used include:
- Caryophyllus aromaticus
- Eugenia aromatica
- Eugenia caryophyllata
- Eugenia caryophyllus
Curtis and Williams suggest this material for use “in spicy and Carnation perfumes, also, in small dosages, for imparting richness to almost any perfume”. They also recommend combining it with iso-Amyl Salicylate and comparing results with similar experiments with Eugenol.
According to Arctander: “Clove Bud Oil is water distilled (rarely steam distilled) from the dried flower buds of Eugenia Caryophyllata, a slender, medium-sized, tropical tree, originating in the Moluccas, particularly the island of Amboyna in the eastern Indonesian archipelago. The original wild clove tree from the Moluccas does not produce a eugenol-containing essential oil at all. This wild tree still grows in the islands among plantations of cultivated trees. The cultivation of clove trees is at least 2000 years old.”
He goes on to describe its uses: “In perfumes, clove bud oil blends well with its derivatives, e.g. aceteugenol, methyl eugenol, isoeugenol, vanillin, “ethyl-vanillin”, etc. to form part of the well-known “carnation” base. In rose, honeysuckle and certain deep-sweet florals, clove bud oil lends a unique note of natural richness and body. The classic “rondeletia” perfume type is based upon the combination of clove and lavender oils. Modern variations include the use of lavandin, sage clary, bergamot, bay leaf oil, pimenta berry oil, etc. The oil blends excellently with ylang-ylang and cananga oils, and Oriental types of perfumes often contain significant amounts of clove bud oil.”