Description and usage notes:
This is eugenol extracted from clove essential oil by fractional distillation. The odour profile is very similar to that of synthetic eugenol but slightly sweeter and more rounded.
For most people this is highly reminiscent of clove, which is unsurprising as it constitutes about 90% of that oil, though it is also present in a great number of other natural materials.
Arctander describes it as “Powerful, warm-spicy, rather dry and almost sharp odor, drier and harder than that of Clove bud oil, less peppery-woody than that of Clove leaf oil… Extensively used in perfume compositions, conventionally in Carnation, for which purpose the author would recommend iso-Eugenol in spite of the almost unanimous use of Eugenol in published formulations. For incense, Oriental fragrances, Rose bases, certain types of Fougère, ‘Blue-Grass’ type fragrances, etc. and in all variations of modern Spice types, Eugenol is commonly used in large amounts.”
Note however that the iso-Eugenol mentioned here by Arctander is now so heavily restricted that its use has largely been replaced by alternatives such as Methyl Diantilis or Methyl isoeugenol.
Usage of Eugenol itself is now also restricted so the ‘large amounts’ suggested by him can no longer be used in skin-contact applications, though it remains a popular ingredient in fine fragrance and air care. See also Dihydroeugenol and Eugenyl acetate for alternatives in this odour type.
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