Description and usage notes:
Characteristic sweet odour of tonka absolute in which it is the majority component. Coumarin has the distinction of being the very first synthetic ingredient used in perfumery (in 1882 by Paul Parquet for Houbigant in Fougère Royal, which was first released as a scented soap and only later as a fine fragrance).
In addition to tonka beans, coumarin is also naturally present in a number of herbs and various fruits, including for example strawberries, and can contribute to the sweetness of fruity odours as well as many other fragrance types.
This is a crystalline solid at room temperature and is sold in that form, the crystals are straightforward to dissolve if you have an automatic stirrer, though we also offer a ready made 10% solution if you prefer.
Arctander describes it as “Sweet, herbaceous-warm, somewhat spicy odor, in extreme dilution more haylike, nut- Iike, tobacco-like…
Extensively used in perfumery to support herbaccous odors, Lavender, Lavandin, Rosemary, Citrus oils, Oakmoss, etc., and as a fixative in numerous types of fragrances;
Almost a standard ingredient in Fougère types with Amylsalicylate and Lavender-notes, with or without Oakmoss.”
According to Scent and Chemistry, “Tonalide/Fixolide gives a very special accord with coumarin that is much desirable in constructing male fougere perfumes.”
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djprdavies (verified owner) –
This needs respect. Diluted in to 10% in perfumers alcohol gave me best results in my formulas and a little goes a long way. I do not get the hay, new-mown-hay as described in the profile but definitely get almonds. In my dilution I liken the aroma to that of marzipan.