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CAS No.
62563-80-8
Odour (decreasing):
Sweet-woody, creamy, fresh, dry. Exalting and very tenacious
Main Synonyms:
hrysopogon zizanioides extract acetylated; vertiveryl acetate; vetiver extract acetylated; vetiveryl acetate (ex vetiver java); vetiveria zizanioides,ext., acetylated
Manufacturer:
SAFC dilution by Pell Wall
This product is a 50% dilution in ethanol, useful because this is otherwise a relatively sticky liquid that can gum up fine pipettes and also because this makes it more affordable.
If you prefer the undiluted product that is also available here. All the velvety-smooth character of the best vetiver, but without the harshness or smoky-notes that can be present in the natural oil. Produced from vetiver oil from Java. Creamy-smooth and softer than the Haiti derived variety. Note that in this product the vetiverol has been separated from the oil prior to acetylation, as opposed to acetylation of the whole oil, hence this has a different CAS number from the Haiti derived material.
Arctander speaks very highly of this material: “The beauty of the odor is only fully appreciated when the material is incorporated in a suitable perfume. The peculiar dry-sweet note does not appear with a woody tone, but it gives fresh lift, yet outstanding tenacity and warmth to a fragrance. Although this ester can be used in almost any type of perfume, it has its most attractive effect in Chypres, modem aldehydic perfumes. compositions with Ionones, Opopanax, Olibanum, Orris, etc. and it is nearly perfect for powder perfumes. Many world-wide known, very successful fashion-perfumes owe part of their success to this item, although the idea of using a very large proportion of this ester in a luxury perfume is older than most of the perfumers working in today’s laboratories. Which only confirms the success of the material – virtually unsurpassed through many decades.”
These are the IFRA restrictions by product class that apply to the use of this product. Note that these apply to the finished product rather than the fragrance concentrate and result from the restriction on acetylated vetiver oil.
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Class 1
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0.07%
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Class 6
|
1.67%
|
|
Class 2
|
0.08%
|
Class 7A
|
0.17%
|
|
Class 3A
|
0.35%
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Class 7B
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0.17%
|
|
Class 3B
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0.35%
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Class 8A
|
2%
|
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Class 3C
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0.35%
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Class 8B
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2%
|
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Class 3D
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0.35%
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Class 9A
|
5%
|
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Class 4A
|
1.04%
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Class 9B
|
5%
|
|
Class 4B
|
1.04%
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Class 9C
|
5%
|
|
Class 4C
|
1.04%
|
Class 10A
|
2.5%
|
|
Class 4D
|
1.04%
|
Class 10B
|
2.5%
|
|
Class 5
|
0.55%
|
Class 11
|
Not restricted
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Aroma Chemicals, creamy, dry, Fixatives, fresh, Ingredients for Perfumery, Liquids, Molecules, radiant, smooth, sweet, warm, woody,
Safety Data Sheet (SDS): Download SDS (PDF)
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Each entry contains a short list of scent notes with occasionally other short commentary to assist those who may not have encountered the material previously to decide whether it is of interest: I recommend you make your own assessment of each and every perfumery material you use however.
After pricing, quantity options and other basic details scroll down for narative descriptions: these are intended to assit interested readers as well as potential purchasers to assess the uses and potential of the material in question.
Many of the descriptions contain quotations from the manufacturer of the product and in addition I have quoted fairly extensively from Arctander[1] and from Arcadi Boix Camps[2] – both independent writers and both highly experienced perfumers.
There are also some quotes from Bedoukian[3] where details of the chemistry of a material are significant and from Scent & Chemistry[4] the authors of which have taken an analytical approach to the art of perfumery that is unusual and very useful. Quotations have been included from the extremely useful teaching books by Calkin & Jellinek[5] and Curtis & Williams[6] and Surburg and Panten [7] as well.
Anything not identified as a quotation is my own opinion of the material in question and it’s uses, but I am grateful to many other sources and perfumers as well as the expert authors named here. Please note that these descriptions are copyright of the author and, other than properly achnowledged fair use quoations as defined in English Law, republication in any form is not permitted.
[1] Steffen Arctander: quotations are taken from Perfume and Flavor Chemicals published in 1969 and Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin published in 1961
[2] Arcadi Boix Camps: quotations are taken from Perfumery: Techniques in Evolution, 2nd Edition published in 2009, but containing material written in 1978, 1985, and 1999 as well – where relevant the date of writing is noted with the quotations.
[3] Bedoukian: quotations are taken from Perfume and Flavoring Synthetics, 3rd, Revised Edition by Paul Z. Bedoukian, Ch.E., Ph.D. Published in 1986.
[4] Scent & Chemistry by Ohloff, Pickenhagen and Kraft, published as a book of that name in 2012, from which I have quoted, but also referencing updates on their maintained Facebook page . In addition this tag is used in the descriptions for other works involving the same authors, including:
[5] Calkin & Jellinek: quotations are taken from Perfumery: practice and principles by Robert R. Calkin, J. Stephan Jellinek, published in 1994.
[6] Curtis & Williams: quotations are taken from An Introduction to Perfumery 2nd Edition, by Tony Curtis and David G Williams, published in 2001
[7] Surburg and Panten: quotations are taken from Common Fragrance and Flavor Materials. Preparation, Properties and Uses. 5th Edition by Horst Surburg and Johannes Panten (Copyright 2006 WILEY-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim), published in 2006
A quick note about spellings: this website is primarily written in British English - it is after all written by an English Perfumer - however most of the authors mentioned here and many of the manufacturers were writing for American audiences and published using American English: where that is the case I have, as far as possible, preserved the spelling used in the source material. As a result there may be inconsistencies on any given page, but that seemed to me better than arbitrarily changing material in the process of quotation.
We’ve recently had a change of policy - and bought some new containers - so now all ingredients are sold by weight whether they are solids or liquids. Only the 10ml and 5ml sizes incorporated in kits, and a few inexpensive materials such as solvents, are still done by volume. Even the 5ml and 10ml sizes will now be filled to contain 5g or 10g regardless of whether the material is solid or liquid.
Liquids up to 10g in glass bottles (where the fill level may vary as illustrated above), 30g and 50g in HDPE Plastic.
Those materials available in 1Kg are normally supplied in aluminium flasks similar to those used for the 500g size, though we do supply a few materials in HDPE bottles as well.
Finally please note that, with some 500 different materials and so many size options we don’t hold ready-to-sell stocks: when you buy perfumery ingredients we will prepare them to order for you. This means that large orders can sometimes take a few days to prepare and also that we don’t offer refunds on ingredients, unless of course there is a fault of some kind.
